Is Wine a Social Evil?
From the French Paradox to Dry January, wine has long been caught in the crossfire of health debates. Diego makes the case that wine, enjoyed with knowledge and moderation, is culture and connection—not a social evil.
“Social evil” is a big term, probably too big to sit comfortably alongside the idea of wine. Wine is certainly not comparable to a pandemic or something that is systematically harmful. Yet the debate over whether to drink or not to drink has long been influenced by opposing interest groups, particularly since 1991 and the enormous attention generated by reports on the French Paradox.
The French Paradox refers to the apparently contradictory epidemiological observation that French people historically showed a relatively low incidence of coronary heart disease (CHD), despite consuming a diet relatively rich in saturated fats. At the time, some researchers suggested that the regular consumption of red wine might be one of the factors contributing to this phenomenon.
The idea gained enormous attention in 1991, when the then-novel concept of the French Paradox was featured in the United States on 60 Minutes. Within a year, red wine consumption in the United States had increased by 40%, and some wine sellers even began promoting their products as “health food.”
In 1999, in response to this trend, researchers Malcolm Law and Nicholas Wald challenged the idea. They published a study in the British Medical Journal, using data from earlier research on alcohol and diet to explain how the French Paradox might actually be an illusion. In the years that followed, the debate continued, with studies and arguments emerging on both sides.
More recently, we have seen the rise of movements such as Dry January, encouraging people to abstain from alcohol for a month, particularly after the excesses of the Christmas and New Year season.
However, one genuinely serious problem is binge drinking, particularly among young people who consume large quantities of alcohol in a short period of time with the intention of becoming intoxicated. This often involves stronger alcoholic drinks rather than wine. It is therefore important to distinguish wine culture from patterns of excessive alcohol consumption. Binge drinking is a real problem that deserves to be addressed.
But when you think about wine itself, it can represent culture, refinement and pleasure, when appreciated responsibly and in moderation.
First, wine is culture.
It belongs to the history of humankind. People have been making wine for more than 8,000 years, with some of the earliest archaeological evidence of winemaking found in Georgia. Wine has helped shape entire civilizations.
In ancient Greece, for instance, wine played an important role in the famous symposium, a gathering held after dinner where men drank diluted wine while discussing philosophy, politics and the future of the city. Wine was part of the intellectual and social ritual, with moderation considered essential to maintaining clarity of thought.
In France, many of the finest wines are associated with a specific terroir: a place where soil, climate, grape variety and human knowledge interact in a unique relationship, often refined through centuries of observation and experience, notably by monastic communities.
Second, wine is refinement.
Being able to pair the right wine with the right dish is an art that many people spend a lifetime mastering. I think here of the late three-Michelin-starred chef Alain Senderens and his legendary Paris restaurant, L’Archestrate.
Another name comes to mind: Robert Mondavi. In California, Mondavi understood very early that if he wanted his fellow Americans to embrace wine, he also had to teach them how wine and food could complement each other. This philosophy contributed to his involvement in the creation of the American Institute of Wine & Food (AIWF) in 1981, together with celebrated figures including Julia Child.
Last but not least, wine is pleasure.
This is perhaps what people have been seeking in wine since the beginning: not simply alcohol, but the pleasure of sharing, celebrating and being together.
In Georgia, wine is at the heart of a traditional feast called the supra. During the feast, the tamada, or toastmaster, leads a series of toasts that may honour God, the homeland, family, guests and those who came before. Hospitality has profound significance in Georgian culture, and guests are treated with extraordinary respect.
More than simply a feast, the supra creates deep bonds among those who break bread and share wine together. It cultivates an intimacy that connects them not only to one another, but also to the generations that have feasted, toasted and celebrated before them. At its heart is one of wine’s greatest pleasures: the pleasure of being together and sharing a unique moment.
And one final point.
There are organizations such as Wine in Moderation that promote responsible wine consumption. The initiative encourages wine producers and professionals to present, sell and serve wine responsibly. Its message focuses on moderation, taking the time to appreciate wine and recognising the circumstances in which alcohol should not be consumed, such as when driving, during pregnancy or by those who are underage.
To answer the initial question: wine is not a social evil. It has been woven into the history of humankind for thousands of years, and there is every reason to believe it will remain so. Wine is more than a beverage: it is part of the fabric of civilization, carrying with it culture, refinement, craftsmanship and pleasure. Like anything capable of giving pleasure, it calls for knowledge, moderation and responsibility. With education and thoughtful consumption, wine can continue to be what it has long been: a companion that brings comfort in difficult times, gives meaning to moments of connection, and adds a little more beauty to the victories worth celebrating.
