Calvados: an unknown tiny, secret gem in the heart of Normandie

Calvados, mainly made of apples, with some use of pear, relies on balance to reach the sheer delicacy that this spirit brings along in the glass. Balance between the delicate and elegant fruit and the oak used for ageing but also balance between the same fruit and the spirit. True Calvados is a delight, one of the most refined and sought after by true amateurs the world over.

A long and tortuous history.

The first written reference to cider distillation in Normandy is found in a manuscript dating from 1553. Gilles de Gourbeville, a gentleman from Cotentin (1522 – 1578), referred to stills and eau de vie in his Memoires. At this time, the spirit resulting from the distillation of cider was used only for local and personal consumption. This continued to be the case until the XVIIth century when its reputation started to grow.

After the French Revolution, the name Calvados was officially born, corresponding with the creation of departments (the name of the sub-regions in France). The 1890s saw the creation of the first industrial distillery at a time when Normandy was experiencing the impact of the development of transport routes. At almost the same time, the phylloxera crisis was destroying the French vineyards, which led to an increased interest in Calvados.

A first classification system was introduced based on criteria which included product’s origin, appearance, aromas and age. This progress however was hindered by the First World War, which had a considerable impact on the industry. Producers had to produce ethanol alcohol for the manufacture of explosives. 400.000 hl of industrial alcohol were produced by 1938. The distilleries continued producing cider eau de vie along the industrial alcohol. Fraud was common and producers demanded in 1935 – 1936 that the traditional cider eau de vie production be protected. The reputation of Calvados suffered and this spirit became synonymous with strong alcohol of poor quality.

Producers continued their quest for recognition. Their effort culminated in the first series of decrees in 1942 which led to Calvados Pays d’Auge as a fully recognized appellation. But it was in 1984 that the Calvados appellation was created. Calvados Domfrontais gained AOC status only in 1997.

Apples and pears: two magical fruits, …

In Normandy, the overall climate is oceanic, with small variations in temperature and abundant and regular rainfall, which benefits the orchards. The orchards used for Calvados production extend over 8000 ha and include 230 varieties of apples and 139 varieties of pears. They are usually high in phenol content with a diverse aromatic profile.

There are three appellations covering the production of Calvados, each with a specific geographical area attached to it. Harvesting, fermentation, distillation and ageing have to take place in each of these geographical areas. The appellation covers a large part of Normandy and a fraction of the neighboring departments: Eure, Seine-Maritime, Mayenne and Oise.

Apple and pear trees can be trained following two different ways: either short trunks or long trunks. In the case of high-stem training (haute tige), bare trunks measure 1,80 to 2 meters high and the ring or crown above the trunk, considerable in size, can reach 10 to 15 meters. There is a maximum allowed density of 280 trees/ha and a maximum authorized yield of 25 tons/ha. In this case, the tree lives for a long period and yields well during the course of its life. However, it will take 5 years for that tree to produce and harvesting is much more complicated.

For low-stem training (basse tige), the trunk is 60 to 80 cm high with aerated branches going in all directions. This system is easy to maintain and harvest is also easy. However, the tree only lives for 20 to 30 years but produces quicker than with the high-stem training. Here, 280 to a maximum of 1000 trees per ha are allowed with a maximum authorized yield of 35 tons/ha.

It all starts with the apple.

The apple varieties are classified into four categories, according to their acidity, sugar, bitterness and tannin: bitter, bittersweet, sweet or acidulous. Traditional producers grow 20 to 40 varieties while large producers use half a dozen mostly acidic and modern varieties. By blending different varieties, a smooth Calvados is created. Usually, 10% are bitter apple varieties. The majority 70% are bittersweet and the rest 20% acidic. Acidic apples give the Calvados more flavor. In Domfront, over 30% pears are used and generally results in a fruitier Calvados thanks to the sweetness of the pears.

• Bitter category: rich in tannin; it gives the cider more body;
• Bittersweet category: balanced sweetness and tannins;
• Acidic category: brings freshness and contributes to a good conservation;
• Sweet category: brings sugar and flavor, contributing to a good level of alcohol.

… that will give their essence in Calvados.

Harvest takes place in the Autumn, during different periods, depending in the apple variety, usually between mid-October through November and the beginning of December. Then, the cider has to be made. Most of the flavor in Calvados is extracted from the skin, not much from the pulp. The equipment is usually composed of a grater, a tank, a press and a vat. In the press house, the apples are washed, single out and crushed or grated. The pulp is left to stand for one to four hours in a vat to macerate. This softens the cell walls of the skin and extracts the tannins and aromas. The pulp oxidizes changing the color of the pulp. The pulp is pressed and the solid part called marc is separated. Around 650 liters of juice are obtained from a ton of fruit. To put it another way, it is estimated that about 18 kg of apples are needed to obtain 11,7 liters of cider at 5%. They will produce 1 liter of Calvados at 70% abv.

Fermentation is the next step. Compared with cider for drinking, the cider for distillation is fermented until crisp dry. The fermentation takes place in large oak barrels called “tonneaux”. These are larger and have thinner walls than barrels for ageing. The cider ferments on its lees (yeast sediments) for a minimum of six weeks. Quality producers ferment for a longer time, usually a couple of months, some up to a year, then take the cider out of its lees. The minimum alcohol level is 4,5% abv, but most producers ferment until 5,6 or even 7% abv.

The Calvados appellations.

The Calvados AOC Appellation: these are spirits that are distilled from a cider of apples coming from Normandie, in one go (simple distillation), in a column still. 70% of production; Calvados is aged for at least two years before release.

The Appellation Pays d'Auge AOC: this is a spirit based on Normandy apple cider that is distilled twice in a pot still (called a Charentais still). 29% of production; Calvados is aged for at least two years before release. The cider for distillation contains a maximum of 30% pears.

The Appellation Domfrontais AOC: If the other Calvados appellations can contain pear (no more than 30%), the Domfrontais must necessarily contain 30% pear minimum. It is distilled in a column still in a single pass. 1% of production. Calvados is aged for at least three years before release.

The use of different stills has an impact on the final product, its style, aromatic profile and ageing potential. The use of a pot still – that is double distillation – even though it is a more complicated and long process, demanding specific skills, expertise and experience will confer the spirit a more complex set of aromas, which are more delicate, fruity and rich. Moreover, these aromas will become rounder and develop over the years, giving a more marked balance between the aromas of apple and oak for longer ageing (10 to 30 years).

On the contrary, the use of column still – that is a single distillation – offers an easier, quicker production but less complex aromas, which are more on the fruity side. Calvados produced that way takes less time to mature, with less enduring flavor and a shorter ageing potential (10 to 15 years).

Just after distillation, the Calvados has no color. It is not called Calvados, but “eau de vie de cidre” or cider spirit. However, unlike neutral spirits, Calvados has to gain color and aromas from ageing. Its ageing curve is very similar to cognac or whisky. Producers age the Calvados for a minimum period of two years (three years for Domfrontais). A lot of Calvados is aged several years, some even 20 to 40 years. The aroma of fresh apple is wanted in younger Calvados but it is fundamental for longer maturing Calvados. As the Calvados gets older, these fruity aromas mature and become balanced with aromas from the oak. One effect of the maturation process is the darkening of the color caused by oxidation and the high level of alcohol (70%) that dissolves color from the oak.

The main desired effects of wood ageing are the addition of tannin for structure and color. The reaction with alcohol and wood combined with oxidation gives aromas reminiscent of dried fruit, caramel, brioche, butter, apricot, banana, coffee, vanilla and cacao.

Once the aged spirit is ready for bottling, the cellar master has to blend several spirits to achieve the required “house style”. Usually older, more complex and colored Calvados is used to give younger, more fruity Calvados, the right character, roundness and finesse. Some industrial producers color their Calvados. Before bottling, the cellar master dilutes the level of alcohol with water to around 40 – 43% abv. The alcohol level in the barrel starts out from around 70% abv and very slowly by evaporation declines down to 65%, 60% or even 50% for old Calvados. Quality producers avoid to add water and instead encourage the evaporation through aeration. Some old Calvados is sold “non réduit”, not reduced. Occasional “millésimes” (vintages) are not blended. A vintage Calvados should only be bottled if the barrel is outstanding and balanced enough on its own.

Labelling terminology.

All three appellations share the same labelling terminology. These terms guarantee the minimum age of the youngest spirit used in the blend.

• 2 years: Trois Étoiles, Trois pommes, VS
• 3 years: Vieux, Réserve
• 4 years: VO, VSOP, Vieille Réserve
• 6 years: XO, Hors d’Âge, Très Vieille Réserve, Très Vieux, Extra, Napoléon
• Age statement: The age statement on the label, for example 15 years old, is the age of the youngest spirit in the blend. All spirits used to make Vintage Calvados must come from the same year. It is recommended that a bottling date is included on the label.

How Calvados tastes like.

As with other spirits, the master distillers’ imagination has no limits and increasingly, research around cask finish and ageing time in oak vessels of different shapes and sizes brings a new richness and diversity to Calvados.

Distillerie Coquerel

Calvados Coquerel. 40%.

Light gold color. Slightly warming and spicy grip in the nose with subtle apple and cider notes. Limited intensity. Integrated alcohol in the palate with a prolonged warming finish marked by fruity aromas (ripe apple). Quite short in the finish.

Coquerel Collection. Port Finish.

Light amber color with a sweet approach in the nose. More powerfully geared towards apple than the previous one, with a more subtle integration of the fruit and the spirit. Old oak notes come along with sweet spices (cinnamon, cardamom). Creamier in the palate and round, with a smooth and longer finish. The Port finish gives this Calvados an extra delicacy.

Coquerel Collection. Bourbon Finish. 4 years.

Light amber bright color. Delicate and well-integrated oak along with smooth alcohol and fruity apply notes. Elegant and fine in its first approach. Creamy and lovely texture, with a prolonged spicy finish marked by subtle wood and apple. Ends with a sweet note.

Berneroy XO. Calvados Pays d’Auge. 40%.

Medium amber color with a fruity and warm nose. Dry fruit like almond and sweet spices like nutmeg. Well-integrated oak at this point, with light notes of dried apple and vanilla. In the palate, it shows a marked creaminess with hints of baked apple tart and ripe fruit (apricot). Smooth, long finish with a sweet end note.

Coquerel Single Cask. 24 years.

Deep bright amber color. Powerful nose of sweet spice, subtle oak and dry fruit. Vanilla and caramel do appear in the nose after a few minutes. In spite of the 24 years in cask, dried apple shines through in a very subtle and refined way. Warming finish marked by dried apple and apricot. Very long aftertaste with sweet spices and cider.

Boulard

Pays d’Auge, Grand Salage 40%.

Old gold color. Very fruity and light in the nose. Fresh and joyful. Freshly picked apple shines through. Smooth alcohol in the nose. Light in the palate, with a very soft spirit coating the freshly picked apple. Sweet and short but very enjoyable finish. The perfect Calvados for those who are approaching the category for the first time.

VSOP Pays d’Auge. Bourbon Cask finish. 44%.

Medium amber color. A little more marked by the spices (black pepper) than the previous Calvados from Boulard. At the same time, it is sweeter, with a touch of corn syrup and ripe apple. Oak and vanilla are very discrete and bring elegance to the whole spirit. Again, slightly sweet in the palate, with a spicy fine alcoholic grip. Longer and more powerful than the previous one with a finish marked by baked apple and biscuit. Ends with a sweet touch brought by the Bourbon finish.

Père Magloire

VSOP Smoky Islay. 40%.

Medium amber color. Slightly warm in the nose with smoke and ripe apple appearing at the same time. Smoke dominates in the palate with a clear presence of peat, which kind of masks the raw material a little bit. Probably the perfect Calvados for peated whisky lovers who want to see how apple and peat combine together. Finishes on ash notes and wood fire.

Père Magloire XO. 40%.

Medium amber color. Very smooth and soft in the nose. The first impression is that of baked apple combined with vanilla and oak notes from the cask. Dry and fruity, with baked apple tart and subtle alcohol and spicy finish (curcuma). Finishes on ripe apple mousse.

Lecompte

Pays d’Auge 12 ans. 40%.

Intense amber color. Fruity and spicy at the same time. Very complex and elegant nose, with dry fruit (almond), ripe apple, cardamom, curcuma and white pepper. Fresh and vibrant, with a well-integrated oak and many different layers of aromas in the palate: raw material (apple tart) and ageing (peppery notes and a hint of oak) aromas. Medium finish with something smooth, subtle and elegant in the end palate. Successful long ageing where every element is in the right place.

Christian Drouin

La Blanche. 40%.

Fresh and vibrant apple juice with the smooth spirit shining through. Bright apple fruit with a biscuit coating, sweet and enticing. Dry and creamy in the palate, with a limited finish but the guarantee that this spirit will work wonderfully well with many different cocktails where apple has a dominant role to play. Very good white Calvados indeed!

Selection. 40%.

Medium yellow color. Riper, with herbal notes (hay) and a certain spiciness of the spirit. Less obvious apple than in the La Blanche Calvados. Perfumed and floral nose (almost akin to rose petals). Lovely creamy palate with a very discrete touch of wood which gives an extra depth to the whole spirit. Medium finish, marked by the unique floral and fresh profile of this Calvados.

VSOP. 40%.

Light amber color. Fresh apple along with a slightly warming spirit which balances each other. Fruit and delicate oak are present and combine well, giving structure and personality to this Calvados. After a while, a hint of vanilla appears in the nose. Again, enjoyable creamy texture, with a very well-integrated spirit and a prolonged finish marked by the sweet note of an apple tart. Refined and elegant all together.

XO. 40%.

Medium amber color. Apple with a hint of light tobacco in the first approach to the nose. The oak brings an extra depth and a layer of complexity at the same time. Also pear, apricot and dry fruit. Dry in the palate with smooth delicate spirit and a long finish with sweet spices and a touch of honey and maple syrup. Very enjoyable impression.

Hors d’Âge. 42%.

Marked amber color. Warming impression in the nose. Dry fruit (almond, hazelnut) along with dry apricot and dried apple. A hint of caramel and sweet spices (cinnamon, cardamom) and well-integrated oak. Extremely soft spirit given by the prolonged ageing process of this Calvados with a long, complex, elegant and vibrant finish. A spirit for meditation, a sweet cigar and good company!

NB: all the Calvados tasted for this article have been kindly sent by the producers.