Armagnac, a small region producing big spirits

Armagnac is a traditional grape-based spirit with over 700 years of history. Wine comes from white grapes and is distilled in winter in a specific column still. Most of the spirit then undergoes a long ageing in Limousin or local Gascon oak. Then, the cellar master will intervene and prepare the blends to better express the house style. 2,8 million bottles were sold in 2020, 1,25 million in France and 1,54 million on export markets with China, the United States and Russia being (at the time) the biggest export markets.

A suitable climate, …

The climate is the result of a multifaceted influence: the Atlantic Ocean, the Mediterranean Sea and the Pyrenees.

The influence of the Atlantic Ocean usually means rain. But the Landes Forest, separating the vineyards from the Ocean, acts as a protective buffer, mitigating the impact of the rain, which remains relatively moderate with an annual rainfall of 700 to 800 mm/m2. The influence of the Mediterranean is more perceptible in the easternmost corner of the appellation. South-easterly winds are hot and drying, making that budburst can be precocious. Armagnac vineyard is therefore located between a very maritime climate to the west and a much more continental climate to the east. Overall, the temperature range between seasons is limited. Winter is short and mild, with an average temperature of 7ºC. Spring is moist and tepid, with an average temperature of 15ºC. However, spring frosts remain a real threat until April. Summer is usually dry and mild (20ºC average temperature). Autumn is also mild and sunny with 10ºC on average.

However, Armagnac producers get nervous during two seasons of the year: the spring and the summer. If a spring frost occurs, many buds can be killed. In summer, inch-wide hailstones can rip entire clusters from the vine, reducing yields.

… completed by an array of different grape varieties, …

If Cognac’s grapes are comprised of 98% Ugni Blanc, Armagnac’s grapes are split between Bacco, Folle Blanche, Ugni Blanc and Colombard. These four main grape varieties, among the ten officially authorized, give their personality to the eau-de-vie.

Folle Blanche represents 5% of the plantings of the region. It produces a light to medium-bodied wine low in alcohol (7º - 9º abv) and high in acidity, ideal for distillation into fine brandy. Yields are fairly low. Brandies made from Folle Blanche show floral aromatics, white peach, dried apricot and orange peel along with textural delicacy.

Bacco grapes account for 30% of the wine used for distillation. It is a hybrid of the vinifera Folle Blanche and the American labrusca Noah. It gives sturdier wines than either of its parents while retaining some of Folle Blanche aromatics. Wines are below 10º abv, medium-bodied and combine lemon and green apple. After distillation and wood ageing, it does yield a spirit evoking dried plum, dried apricot and quince.

Ugni blanc comprises 50% to 55% of the grapes used for distillation. It has a neutral flavor, produces wines with elevated levels of acidity and low alcohol and is clean and frank. Armagnacs made from Ugni blanc tend to accentuate the spicy notes from the oak.

Colombard grapes represent around 10% of the total. Wines include notes of apple blossom, pear drop, red grapefruit and herbs. After distillation it gives slightly herbal and freshly mown hay aromas.

.., and a terroir with a diverse and rich history.

The Armagnac region is located in Gascony, in the heart of a triangle demarcated by the Garonne River to the north, the Landes forest to the west and the Pyrenees mountain range to the south. It is divided into three sub-regions: Bas-Armagnac, Ténarèze and Haut-Armagnac. Overall, there are 15.000 ha of vineyards planted. Most of these surfaces are dedicated to the production of IGP Côtes de Gascogne, the local still wine. Only 5.300 ha of vines are exclusively dedicated to the production of Armagnac.

The different styles of Armagnac are partly linked to the rich geological history of the region. The Armagnac was once part of a deep channel that flowed between the Pyrenees along the Spanish border and the Massif Central, a mountain range that begins in Centre France and descends near the Mediterranean. These mountains were formed over millions of years. Crevices developed as the currents of water shifted. Submerged rubble was gradually transformed into layers of clay as the bodies of water flowed through the valleys.

When the water level dropped, large amounts of sand and transient marine material settled above the clay. The relatively flat area now known as the Bas-Armagnac remained covered with much of this sand and marine sediment. Sands are locally called “sables fauves” (pockets of iron elements in places color the soil reddish brown, hence their name ‘tawny sands’). There is no limestone in Bas-Armagnac, where 67% of all vineyards are located. Soils tend to have higher acidity levels, which lends itself to grapes with similarly high acid levels. This zone produces light, fruity, delicate and highly reputed eaux-de-vie. In Ténarèze, representing 32% of the vineyards, moving east, gentle hills begin to break up the flat expanses of land. The soil also becomes harder with layers of clay. These eaux-de-vie are generally more full-bodied. They reach their peak after a long ageing. Further east, the Haut-Armagnac is hillier and the limestone content within the clay begins to rise. Production of Armagnac in this area is very limited.

Then fermentation, distillation and aging give the final touch to the best Armagnacs.

Contrary to any still wine, where the use of SO2 (sulfur dioxide) is allowed, in the handling of the winemaking for Armagnac, there is no SO2 authorized. Therefore, juices have to be high in acidity and be handled properly to avoid any spoilage. In fact, the last thing you want in your glass of Armagnac is to have a concentration of sulfur aromas! Traditionally, the wine used to produce Armagnac is distilled once in a continuous still called alembic armagnacais. It is a short column still, a down-scaled version of the column still. Unlike industrial column stills, the traditional Armaganc still cannot heat the wine above 60ºC. This still is continuous because it does not have to be stopped after each batch to empty it. It is this single distillation that plays the biggest role in setting the spirit apart from other brandies.

The alambic armagnacais is either heated with wood or gas. Some use only gas, stating that the constant temperature leads to a more balanced spirit. Others prefer wood-fueled alambics, claiming that it is the slight variance in degree that leads to the extraction of differing esters which help create a more complex spirit.

How to make a difference between Cognac and Armagnac in the glass?

Many factors do participate in the difference between Cognac and Armagnac. First of all, due to its more southerly location and a more Mediterranean influence, Armagnac will offer a riper fruit profile, partly enhanced by the use of Baco grape variety which also participates in the overall riper style of Armagnac.

Second, Armagnac will always be fatter in the palate than Cognac. This is explained by the fact that Armagnac is single distilled at a low degree (52º - 55º abv) meanwhile Cognac is double distilled in a pot still, reaching 72º - 78º abv. And the higher the degree of the collected spirit is, the lighter this spirit will appear on the palate. Third, traditional Armagnac has an alcoholic content that is normally between 46º and 48º abv while Cognac is reduced to 40º abv. Forth, Cognac’s aromas are subtle yet not always forthcoming. Its concentration has been diluted. Traditional Armagnac is normally more aromatic: heightened alcohol helps push aromas from the glass.

Fifth, the fruit of Armagnac typically shows notes of plum apricot and orange. Cognac’s fruit is normally light and more floral. Besides, the reaction of Armagnac with oak often yields notes of toffee, bourbon, caramel and pepper. Cognac’s interaction with oak normally delivers plenty pf spice but frequently herbal, steamed and resinous notes as well.

And last but not least, when comparing an Armagnac and a Cognac with the same oak ageing, alcohol will always seem a bit more present in Armagnac than in Cognac. Armagnac’s hit their peak between 20 and 30 years of age in oak. Perhaps due to their higher alcohol content, Cognac’s evolution curve is slower and often peaks around the 40 or 50 year mark.

Once made, the young spirit will undergo an ageing in wood (except for Blanche Armagnac). Wood will provide color to the spirit, provide tannin, offer flavoring components (such as vanilla and spice), permit a slow oxidation and provide storage space.

Different types of oak are used. Gascon oak, coming from the Monlezun and Monguilhem forests, tends to have a wide grain, yields lots of tannin (slightly more than Tronçais and about 25% more than Limousin) and secretes a generous dose of flavorants that include vanilla and spice.

Limousin, located about a hundred miles east of the Cognac region, has the widest grain because it is the fastest growing oak due to richer soils and higher rainfall within the forest. It is the primary wood used for ageing Armagnac. Its loose pores allow the spirit to oxidize at a fast rate, helping to concentrate, gain a deeper color and allow for greater extraction of flavorants contained in the wood.

The Allier forest, located in central France between Limousin and Bourgogne, produces tight-grained wood. A sub-forest within Allier is called Tronçais and produces more expensive oak that also grows more slowly, thereby giving a tighter grain. It gives less vanilla nuance to the developing Armagnac and slightly less tannin.

Armagnac categories.

Unaged Armagnac is Blanche Armagnac. This category was born in 2005 and requires an ageing in inert containers for at least three months. Floral and fruity notes are the main aromas found in this young unaged spirit.

A VS or three *** requires a minimum ageing in wood of one year. A VSOP (Very Special Old Pale) requires a minimum ageing of 4 years of the youngest eau-de-vie. In practice, the Armagnac houses often use much older Armagnacs as they bring a richer aromatic palette. A VSOP is a balance of cooked fruit aromas, sometimes candied, with notes of wood and spice. In the mouth, the light structure brought by the wood is mellow and the eau-de-vie already displays great length.

An XO or Hors d’Age is a spirit with at least 10 years of ageing. It offers a range of a palette of candied fruits (prune, apricot, orange peel) associated with mellow aromas of wood. Sometimes patisserie notes and spices add tasty indulgence to the whole. A touch of rancio and dried fruits confirm the maturity of the blend. In the mouth it is balanced with good length and a controlled heat.

Vintage Armagnacs come from a single harvest and require at least 10 years ageing. Each vintage from each producer has its own character and personality, its own style with notes of patisserie, aromas of dried fruits, notes more volatile or soft, with intensity or mildness. This category is considered the top of the range in Armagnac.

How Armagnac tastes like?

Château de Laubade. Intemporel Hors d’Âge. 40%.

Grapes exclusively coming from the property. Gascony oak has been used. Maturing between 12 and 20 years, grape variety by grape variety, vintage by vintage. Blend of more than 15 different eaux-de-vie with a dominance of Baco grape variety. Light amber colour. Candied fruits, spices, vanilla, oak, prune, rancio aromas. In the palate, it is elegant, masculine and powerful.

Domaine Tariquet. 12 years old. Pure Folle Blanche. 40%.

An intense colour with shades of amber. A nose reminiscent of orange zest, sweet cocoa, and toasted almond. Harmony and complexity, with a multitude of flavors. The dry orange, rancio, liquorice, amaretto, cacao, and chocolate, all precede a full, intense and long palate that has integrated alcohol and a lovely touch of gingerbread to finish. The elegant and long finish reveals notes of spices and ginger.

Armagnac Janneau 12 years old Grand Armagnac. 40%.

Classic nose of stewed prunes, ripe peach, furniture polish, ginger, and a bouquet of fresh yellow flowers. The concentrated palate has honeyed florals and balanced oak and soft tannins culminating in an enduring finish.

Château de Pellehaut 40 years old. 100% Ugni blanc. 40%.

Powerful nose with nutty notes, completed by walnuts and chestnuts typical of an old Armagnac and coca and dark chocolate aromas. Very long finish with a smooth and integrated alcohol.